The restaurants of Praça do Comércio are in the arcades of the east and west wings. There is fish and seafood at Baía do Peixe and Marisqueira Azul, Portuguese cooking at Can the Can and Museu da Cerveja, Italian food at Squisito and Nosolo Itália and, on the north-east corner, Martinho da Arcada, open since 1782.
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The numbers follow the arcades: the west wing from the river to the arch, the Martinho da Arcada corner, then the east wing from the arch to the river.
The restaurants in the arcades run from €€ to €€€€. Pizza and Portuguese cooking are at €€, fish and seafood at €€€ and RIB's aged steaks at €€€€.
Each restaurant's level, from € to €€€€, says what one person pays for the house's typical main course: a dish from the menu, a rodízio or one person's share of a seafood platter. € is up to €15, €€ is €15 to €30, €€€ is €30 to €45 and €€€€ is over €45.
Where a menu publishes no prices, the level follows the per-person band that Turismo de Lisboa, the city's tourist board, gives. Drinks, starters and the couvert are extra. The price of each dish is on each restaurant's menu.
From the river to the arch, the west wing has Baía do Peixe, the wine tasting room, Squisito and, in the Pousada de Lisboa building, RIB.
A fish and seafood restaurant that serves rodízio style: the staff keep bringing rounds of grilled fish or of shellfish to the table. The fish rodízio includes fish soup and dessert. There is also grilled fish by the kilo and an à la carte menu.
Second helpings come only once the table has finished what it was served, and sharing a rodízio means giving them up.
ViniPortugal's tasting room is not a restaurant. It is a room for tasting Portuguese wines from every region of the country.
There are free-choice tastings, where you pick the wine, and themed tastings. Nobody under 18 is admitted.
An Italian restaurant with pizza, pasta, antipasti and salads. It serves straight through from morning to night.
The steak restaurant of the Pousada de Lisboa, the only hotel on the square, with a terrace in the arcades. At lunch the menu has burgers, sandwiches and steak frites; at dinner, cuts of aged beef.
The bill already includes a suggested 10% service charge.
The east wing starts at Martinho da Arcada, on the corner of Rua da Prata, and runs down to the river past Museu da Cerveja, Marisqueira Azul, Nosolo Itália and Can the Can.
The café where Fernando Pessoa used to write. Coffee is served at the counter; the dining room opens for lunch and dinner, Monday to Saturday.
Despite the name ("the beer museum"), it is mainly a Portuguese restaurant: salt cod, octopus, steak and salt cod cakes with Serra da Estrela cheese, with a list of Portuguese craft beers.
The museum is a route through the history of beer, and the visit includes a tasting. Diners in the restaurant and under-18s visit free.
A seafood restaurant with an indoor room and a large terrace facing the square. It serves seafood platters to share, shellfish by weight, fish and meat.
The same owners run a counter at the Time Out Market.
A pizzeria and ice-cream parlour from a chain that started in Portimão. The menu has pizza, pasta, meat, fish, salads, crêpes, waffles and ice-cream sundaes.
A restaurant of Atlantic-style Portuguese cooking, mostly fish. It serves everything from brunch to dinner.
In the middle of the room hangs a chandelier made from more than 3000 tins. It is right next to the Lisboa Story Centre.
You pay for the couvert only if you order it or eat it. On New Year's Eve, some restaurants in the arcades serve set-menu dinners.
You pay for it only if you order it or eat it.
Some restaurants serve set-menu dinners on the night of 31 December, the night of the New Year's Eve party on the square.
Besides the Pousada de Lisboa, home of the RIB, there are more hotels on Rua do Comércio, just behind the square.
On the square, the historic café is Martinho da Arcada. For pastéis de nata (custard tarts), Fábrica da Nata is 9 minutes' walk up Rua Augusta and Confeitaria Nacional, on Praça da Figueira, 10.
3 minutes on foot
Rua do Comércio, No. 65, one street from the square. All-day brunch and speciality coffee.
9 minutes on foot
Rua Augusta, No. 275 A, near Rossio. Custard tarts baked on the premises, daily 08:00 to 23:00.
10 minutes on foot
Praça da Figueira, No. 18B. A pastry shop opened in 1829, with rooms where you can sit down to a custard tart and coffee.
Both, but mainly a Portuguese restaurant, open daily 10:00 to 00:00. The museum, a route through the history of beer, opens 12:00 to 21:00, and the visit includes a tasting. Diners in the restaurant and under-18s visit the museum free.
At Baía do Peixe, in the west wing, which serves fish and seafood as a rodízio, and at Marisqueira Azul, in the east wing, with seafood platters and shellfish by weight. Both are at the €€€ price level. Can the Can, also in the east wing, serves Portuguese cooking that is mostly fish.
Only if you order it or eat it. The menus in the arcades point out that no dish, the couvert included, can be charged otherwise. The bread, olives and butter brought to the table are priced on the menu. If you do not want them, leave them untouched or ask for them to be taken away.
At the Sala de Provas Vinhos de Portugal, in the west wing, a ViniPortugal room for tasting wines from every region of the country. There are free-choice and themed tastings, and nobody under 18 is admitted. It opens 11:00 to 19:00, daily from April to October and Monday to Saturday from November to March.